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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.